This week marked the third week since the beginning of the semester that I have been following my training plan as laid out last week. This week’s training was useful as a data point on how my body is responding to the combination of climbing and strength training, as it showed little numbers wise, but I could feel changes.
Climbing Progress
I completed my two sessions this week focusing mostly on bouldering, but I did climb a top rope 5.10a on Thursday. During both sessions I was able to complete multiple V4 boulders, aligning with my baseline, and confirming that even with the strength training I am able to maintain my climbing level. Notably, I was able to make significant progress on a V5 boulder problem, but was limited by my finger strength, something that I will get to later in the weights section.
During my top rope climbing session I found that arms were getting much more sore than when I bouldered, it is a much higher volume of climbing. I was not able to flash the route unfortunately, as I had to take a couple breaks in between attempts. However, this is good progress towards my goal.
I believe that to be able to climb a higher grade, my strength is improving at a decent enough pace, however I will need to work more on my technique.
Strength Training
I completed my strength training this week focusing on volume rather than going for heavier weights, as I have been advised.
My program looks like:
- Squat: 10×3 – 155lbs
- Bench Press: 10×3 – 115lbs
- Deadlift: 5×6 – 245lbs
The weights this week were conservative, but the higher volume still made the session challenging. As my fingers were sore from my V5 attempt the previous day, I found myself slipping during my deadlifts, and my fingers were really the limiting factor rather than back or legs.
From a performance perspective, all of the lifts were fine, and I didn’t experience any signs of injury, just the soreness of the climbing meant that I could not do more. Next week I will have to focus on rest and recovery, or focus on creating a healthy training program for my fingers.
This is a video of me doing a set of squats.
Reflection
The key takeaway this week was fatigue and performance. I have not seen any large gains, but I did not regress, which is a fantastic outcome during the early stages of this program. The combination of both climbing and strength training is quite demanding, and my body certainly felt it. However, after the first week where I was doing this, where i set my baseline, I was barely able to walk and last week I was mostly able to function as normal. The only exception to this has been my fingers, which have been struggling to recover between a climb than a lift. Perhaps using wraps or chalk will help me for this problem, I will do a test this week.